for this collection, we steered away from opulent ethnicity with a simpler collection that was more monochromatic in colourway, focusing on shades of white, blue, black and dark brown. although many of the shapes were inspired by silhouettes taken from Japanese, Chinese, African and even Belgian dress styles, the overall impression was less obviously exotic than earlier collections. What was interesting, however, was that because we had an African band to provide the music, everyone assumed the collection was based on that continent. I felt that it proved you can look at another group of cultures without screaming your points of reference. If we had chosen another kind of music, the whole interpretation might have been different. Perhaps, ethnicity is in the eye of the beholder, as much as in what i design. —DVN
photo Patrick Robijn
Dries Van Noten: Shape, Print, and Fabric (Cutting Edge) | Andrew Tucker | 1999
Eclect Dissect, Givenchy F/W 1997 Haute Couture by Alexander McQueen
For this show, McQueen’s art director Simon Costin imagined a fictional surgeon who traveled the world collecting exotic objects and women, whom he took apart and reassembled in his laboratory. The runway staged the return of these murdered women who came back to haunt the living. The models embodied their ghosts, dressed in unique garments of Scottish tartan, Spanish lace, kimonos, and Eastern folk dresses decorated with feathers and animals. McQueen acted like a surgeon with the collection, dissecting traditional clothing and reconstructing their forms to create a morbid aura.